Plumbing Fittings Questions
Illegal plumbing fittings? My brother is a plumber and recently installed a new tap, but washer was made in Taiwan - not even a european country. Bought from B and Qs. Is the fitting an illegal fitting if it goes wrong? He is concerned regarding his insurance...taken out via BPEC.
Plumbing Question. All of our fittings are Kohler brand. Do I HAVE to install Kohler fixtures?? I have been told we have to use all Kohler brand fixtures in the house we are building because when the "rough" plumbing was installed, they used Kohler valves. Is this true? Is there some way the fittings can be universal and we can purchase say, a Fontaine brand faucet even thought the plumbing out of the wall is Kohler brand? HELP! I DID ask a plumber. I have been told 2 different things. I wanted to order a bunch of fixtures on eBay and the store told me I had to buy Kohler brand or they wouldnt fit. Maybe its the sinks and toilets that need to be Kohler, and any brand for faucets?
plumbing pipe fittings? does any one know wether water pipe fitting with compression connection and the like...or nut fitting threads are in the same direction as mechanical nut and bolts i.e. turning clockwise for tightening and anticlockwise for loosening? thanks.
how do I test rough plumbing for leaks? I just roughed in my cabin for plumbing using PEX Yurn tubing and fittings. I have not tied into the main water line.....due to snow and ice upstate. I was thinking of using an AIR line from my small compressor from sears. any ideas? I want to test for leaks so I can close in walls. DAve I
SharkBite fittings on gray polybutylene pipe? I recently used a SharkBite fitting on 3/4" gray polybutylene per the recommendation of my plumbing supply store. The store is new to the SharkBite line and I just recieved a spec sheet from the store but it does not mention that you can use the fittings on polybutylene. Does anyone know it it is OK or do I need to redue this repair?
RV plumbing problem? We have an older slide-in camper (Real Lite). We have a fitting that broke on the interior plumbing (between spigot and fresh water tank). Where do you suggest getting affordable replacement fittings or parts to replace the line between the tank and the spigot?
Plumbing issue: Effect of reducers in water line? I have a well that feeds the house. There is a large accumulator tank after the pump. The fella that put it together used 2" white PVC after that and fed the line to the house down into the concrete pumphouse floor (75 feet from the house) and he fed a similar line down to feed the irrigation pipes. Everything is 2". I am planning on re-plumbing the system so that I can shut off the whole thing or just the house/just the irrigation. I also want to insert a whole house water filter in the line for the house. Most of the filters I've seen either have 3/4" or 1" fittings. Am I going to have any issues reducing the 2" line down to the smaller fitting and then back up to 2"? I'm sure that he reduced that 2" pipe down to 1/2 or 3/4 somewhere en route to the house's plumbing... I just am concerned about the effect (if any) of the extra reduction and expansion to accomodate the filter. I think the system is set for around 50-55 PSI if it matters. Thanks!
manifold plumbing systems? i work for a guy that builds small houses and he has a plumber that does all his work and he's a bit fed up with him not showing up and doing work. he is really the only reasonable plumber around as far as price. we figure that we might be able to install a manifold plumbing system ourselves. i talked to someone before and they said it was very easy to install. i would like to find a couple big companies that make/sell the fittings and pipes needed to do it. i would also like to know of some books or online webpages that would give more details about how it is done. any help would be greatly appriciated.
How would a person go about contaminating the public water supply in almsot any municipality? Components: compressor(capable of 150ps)i, sealed/pressurized container, asst. plumbing fittings, sections of high pressure hose w/fittings, and your choice of contaminants. Since 98% of the municipal water supplies are not equipped with backflow preventers at residential domestic water supply lines, simply introducing the substance through the supply by over riding the municipalities water pressure is a cinch. You simply fill the container with the contaminant, hook it up to any hose bibb at any residential location, hook up the compressor and feed line, and voila, you have just killed 100,000 people. I have spoken with various water department personnel at several municipal water departments and they all say the same thing. We don't want to cause fear by publicizing this, the FBI is involved and they are aware of the problem, and we see this as a real possibility but there is NOTHING we can do about it. Wrong answer Vern. Call your water department in protest!
Lots of plumbing questions re central heating & hot & cold water? I am in the process of relocating my bathroom and need to bring hot & cold water and a radiator over to the new bathroom. I think I knwo what I need to do, but just wanted to run my ideas past people on here. I'd appricate any feedback! My heating is on 8mm (I think) microbore fed from tees on a 22mm send & return. Downstairs rads are fed from a ceiling drop & the pump is on the return. There is currently an 8mm feed for one of the downstairs rads where i want the bathroom one, but this already serves 2 rads. I guess the best way to do it is tee off the 22mm. I also understand that copper is the way to go due to the pump being on the return. I was intending to use push fittings for this. As for the hot & cold water, I was considering plastic, again with push fittings. Eventualy I intend to get a combi boiler, but that's not for quite some time as yet, butI can't see this causing any problems. Any comments?
Leak-proof plumbing of an old-fashioned wall-hung toilet? What is the best way to ensure that a wall-hung toilet is leak-free at both ends of the flush ell? I am using modern fittings inside the tank, and the plastic fitting at the bottom of the tank does not take the torque a brass fitting would. In addition, the rubber rings provided with the ell seem not to be compressed properly at the spud either. I have used tape dope and "Tighter-Than-Tight" dope, which help, but I would be grateful to know the best approach to this problem.
Where can I buy chrome or SS pipe or tubing and fittings with a 5/8" outer diameter? I have exposed chrome plumbing to my shower head. I need more matching pipes to use structurally- some pipe, two flanges, and a 90 degree elbow- all of which will be exposed in the bathroom and must be chrome or stainless for appearances. It is for structure only- it does NOT have to carry water, be rated for safety, or even be hollow, for that matter. It doesn't have to have any significant strength either, anything metal will be strong enough. I have looked everywhere- scoured the internet, from plumbing warehouses to industrial supply companies, and asked at hardware stores, and no one has any or has any ideas who would. Yet I've seen it installed before, so it exists. Some came in the overhead shower kit that's installed in my bathroom. Someone must sell it. Any help, please? I tried in Columbus, Ohio. It's a pretty big town. I tried Lowes, Home Depot, The Andersons, and Carter Lumber. None of them had it, could order it, or could tell me yone who could. Please only answer if you can tell me a place that actually sells this stuff, rather than saying "try so-and-so," as I've already tried at least two dozen places.
Installing a dishwasher in an old house. Plumbing question? I need to find the hot water line, but they are not visible under the sink. I do see the waste line going through the back wall. Will I have to punch through this wall to tap into the line. Assuming it is old galvanized pipe, what special fittings will I need to connect to new dishwasher. thanks.
How harmful is lead solder? I ran all new plumbing in my home. I used pvc through the whole hose except for the hot water heater. The copper lines looked solid coming through the floor so I sweated a couple of fittings to convert to PVC. A few weeks later I am installing a new bathtub and went to sweat a couple of fittings to fabricate a pipe. I looked at my solder and it says 50/tin 50/lead. Oops! I must have grabbed the wrong solder at the hardware store. This is the same solder I used for my hot water heater. I am looking at hours of work to cut out the fittings on the water heater. Is this a major problem as far as health risks or since it is such a small amount maybe it is OK?
What is the best type of replacement material when ripping out and redoing a bathroom down to the studs.? Concrete backer board? Wonderboard? Greenboard? Hardy? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This will be a complete redo: Walls Electrical Floor Fixtures Plumbing Also, does a shower pan with an end drain have to be special order, I think most available are center? If center is most common, must re-plumb! In addition, would like to raise, and put one rotating shower control, eliminating 3-knob controls. Are there any tricks, are special fittings required, in doing this? Thanks!
leaking outdoor faucet - attached copper pipe through brick face connects to pb flexible half in. water line? I want to cut plastic pb tubing and connect a compression or some type of temporary fitting to cut off water for a period of time to allow me get faucet and attached 12 in copper pipe that extends through a 5 inch wood joist (3 joist together) and out of the brick face. I do not believe that this 12 year old faucet can be diassembled for repair. I already tried that. It just would not come apart. When I went to look for connectors I did see some cpvc and brass fittings are they compatible. Any way after I remove the faucet and seal the water line I will need help on how to proceed. I have did some plumbing work in the past. I added a sink with hot and cold water and drain line to my garage. Any advise and assistance will be greatly appreciated.
How to attach soft copper tubing to fitting? this is my first time to handle any plumbing. i want to install a hand shower (hand bidet) beside the toilet.Guys at Lowe's helped me with a Watts 3 way 3/8" adapt-a-vavle and a piece of 3/8" soft copper tubing to connect the outlet on the adapt-a-valve to the 3/8" intake on the hand shower. Problem is i don't know how attach copper tubing to both sides....the tube fits inside both fittings...but it's loose....should they have given me some tubing with a flar ? any ideas ?? i got 1 Tube Insert Sleeve that came with the 3/8" compression fitting, would this thing help ?
Is there a PVC fitting that will allow me to put a 2"pvc pipe INSIDE a 4" PVC pipe, like a pipe in a pipe? I need to plumb a 2" pipe inside a 4" pvc pipe. All the fittings I have seen that are reducer fittings will stop my 2" from sliding inside the 4" line, which makes sense, but I need the 2" to slide inside the 4", I guess you would say it needs to telescope. PLEASE READ.... I know that there are reducers for pipe, but I need one that will allow the 2" PVC pipe to slid eALL of the way INSIDE the 4" pipe, not just into the reducer fitting. All standard reducers have a stop that holds the small pipe from sliding all the way inside the larger. I want one without the stops as I need to pipe to slide inside the larger one.
How do I stop the seepage leak on a compression fitting and cap? I have a pigtail of 1/4" copper tubing that I have to cap. The tubing comes out from a saddle valve attached to the copper pipe that feeds my bathroom sink. The house is plumbed with copper tubing and solder, so I can't just unscrew a length of pipe here. I have an inline brass connector with compression fittings on either end. I have attached one of the compression ends to the copper tubing and have capped the other end with a brass cap for compression fittings. I put Teflon tape on the threads of the cap end, but only used the compression fitting (nut and ferule) on the other. I still get seepage from that fitting, no matter how tight I crank down the connection and cap. Last night, I cranked it down even tighter on both ends -- compression and cap -- and it actually leaked seepage faster (one drop of water every minute or two -- I haven't timed it). What am I doing wrong? How can I make the fitting water tight? Or do I have another choice for capping the tubing?